Yes. A sprinkler blowout in Colorado Springs protects your family and yard by removing water from irrigation lines before freezes crack pipes, flood the lawn, or leave icy patches where kids run. It is a simple service with outsized upside. It cuts repair costs, keeps the play area safer, and saves time you would rather spend with your kids. If you want a local option, here is a reliable place to start for sprinkler blowout Colorado Springs.
What a blowout is, and why Colorado Springs needs it
A blowout pushes compressed air through your sprinkler system to clear water from pipes, valves, and heads. No water left to freeze means no cracking PVC, no split poly lines, and no broken backflow device.
Colorado Springs sits at elevation with quick temperature swings. A warm afternoon can drop to a hard freeze overnight. I used to think winterizing was optional in mild years. Then one early October snap hit. A neighbor’s copper backflow split like a zipper. The repair bill stung more than the cold.
Key point: Water expands when it freezes. If water stays in your irrigation lines, it can crack pipes, pop fittings, and damage the backflow. A fall blowout avoids that risk.
How a blowout protects your family
Fewer icy hazards where kids play
When a buried line cracks, it can leak under the lawn or along walkways. That moisture freezes at night. The surface looks dry at first, then turns slick. You see this near sidewalks and at the curb. Not ideal when kids sprint to the bus.
Safety note: A proper blowout reduces late fall leaks that create icy patches around driveways and paths.
Cleaner yard, less standing water
Small leaks make soggy spots. Those spots attract mosquitoes when warm days return. They also turn into mud pits that kids track into the house. Blowing out before winter often exposes small issues that a tech can fix on the spot or flag for spring.
Less stress for busy parents
Parenting stacks the calendar. You do not need a surprise repair in November. A blowout is predictable. It takes about 20 to 40 minutes for a typical home. One appointment, one small bill, and you move on with your week. That predictability helps more than we admit.
Protects indoor air by preventing hidden leaks
A cracked pipe near the foundation can push moisture toward the house. Maybe not a flood, but damp soil that lingers. That dampness can creep into crawl spaces. I am not saying a blowout solves every moisture problem. It just removes one common source so you can keep the home healthier for your kids.
How a blowout protects your yard
Healthy roots in spring
Freeze damage often shows up in May, not December. You see dead rings around sprinkler heads. You replace turf when you could have kept it. A blowout helps your system start up clean in spring, with full pressure to each zone. Plants recover faster when water arrives evenly.
Prevents shifting soil and sunken spots
Underground leaks cause washouts. Soil settles. The yard gets lumpy. Kids trip. Fixing grade costs time and money. Clearing the lines before deep freezes reduces the odds of a winter break that slowly erodes a pocket of soil.
Saves hard surfaces
Water trapped in lines near sidewalks or patios can leak and freeze. Ice bites at edges and joints. Small spalls grow over time. A blowout cuts that cycle by removing the trapped water that feeds it.
Bottom line: Blow out in the fall, and spring looks better. Less repair, fewer dead spots, and less mess.
When to schedule in Colorado Springs
Fall is not the same every year, but the risk pattern repeats. Consider this simple timeline.
| Month | What to do | Why it helps |
|---|---|---|
| Late August | Walk the yard. Mark broken heads. Note zones that spray sidewalks. | Fix small problems before blowout. Cuts spring surprises. |
| September | Book your blowout slot. Ask about backflow draining. | Schedules fill fast after the first night freeze. |
| Early October | Target blowout completion. | Many first freezes land here. Beat them. |
| Late October | Backup window if warm fall lingers. | Still safe most years, but do not push if nights dip below 28 F. |
| Spring start-up | Test zones, set controller, adjust heads. Fix anything flagged in fall. | Healthy start prevents summer water waste. |
DIY or hire a pro?
I like DIY projects. I also like not replacing a backflow. You can blow out your system yourself with the right tools, a regulator, and patience. For many families, hiring a pro is the calmer path. Here is a simple comparison.
| Option | Typical cost | Time needed | Pros | Tradeoffs |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hire a local service | 70 to 140 dollars for 6 to 8 zones | 20 to 40 minutes | Fast, done right, warranty in many cases | Must schedule, home access needed |
| DIY with compressor | 30 to 60 dollars to rent, or your own gear | 60 to 120 minutes for first time | Save money over years, learn your system | Need regulator, risk if PSI or procedure is off |
DIY steps if you want to try
If you go the DIY route, keep it simple and steady. No rush. I think careful beats clever here.
- Shut off the irrigation water at the main shutoff or at the backflow isolation valves.
- Open the manual drain or test cocks on the backflow to relieve pressure.
- Attach your air compressor to the blowout port. Use a quick-connect fitting. Use a pressure regulator.
- Set pressure. For most residential PVC or poly systems, aim for 50 to 60 PSI. For drip zones, stay around 20 to 30 PSI.
- Use the controller to open one zone at a time. Never run multiple zones at once during blowout.
- Pulse each zone for 1 to 2 minutes, pause, then repeat until only light mist appears. Do not hold continuous air for long stretches. Let the compressor rest as needed.
- Cycle all zones twice. Do a quick third pass on low spots.
- Leave the backflow test cocks open at 45 degrees over winter if your model allows draining. Keep the main valves closed.
- Unplug the controller or set it to Off or Rain mode. Save your program if needed.
Safe ranges: 50 to 60 PSI for sprinkler lines, 20 to 30 PSI for drip. Short pulses work better than one long blast.
A small homeowner compressor in the 4 to 6 CFM range can work, but it will take longer. A tow-behind unit is fast, but only if pressure stays regulated. The goal is clear lines, not brute force.
What to look for in a local service
If you prefer a pro, ask simple questions. You do not need to sound technical.
- Do you use a pressure regulator at the hose bib or blowout port?
- Will you drain the backflow correctly and leave it safe for winter?
- What PSI do you run on standard zones and on drip zones?
- How many passes per zone do you do?
- Do you note repairs for spring and provide a simple report?
- Is there a return visit if a zone still holds water or a head sticks up?
If the person can answer clearly, you are in better hands. If the answers sound rushed or vague, maybe keep looking. That is not me being difficult. I have seen a few rushed blowouts that left one low zone full of water. Not worth the gamble.
Parenting angle that often gets missed
Home care connects to child care more than we think. A safe yard is not an extra. It is where kids learn to climb, fall, and try again.
Here is a small ritual that works. Ask your child to walk the yard with you in September. Hand them a little notebook. Let them spot a crooked head or a puddle. Mark it together. You teach them to see, to plan, to care for shared space. It builds a sense of stewardship, which pays off way beyond sprinklers.
I admit a mild contradiction here. I like simple home routines, but I also do not want to over-structure family time. So I keep this short. Ten minutes, a laugh, then hot chocolate.
Common mistakes that break systems in winter
- Waiting for the first big snow. The first hard freeze can arrive weeks earlier.
- Forgetting to shut the irrigation water before connecting the compressor.
- Running too much pressure. More PSI does not clear faster. It breaks parts.
- Blowing out only once. Pockets of water settle. A second pass helps.
- Ignoring drip lines. They need lower pressure and gentle cycles.
- Leaving the controller on Auto. A surprise cycle in November wastes water and can flood when a valve fails.
Aim for steady, not strong: Controlled pressure and a couple of passes beat one aggressive blast.
How to check that your blowout worked
You do not need fancy tools. These quick checks help.
- Open a few heads by hand. No water puddles up. You see only a bit of mist at most.
- Listen at the backflow. No hiss or gurgle with test cocks open.
- Look at low spots in the yard one day later. No new wet circles.
- Turn on a zone for 10 seconds post blowout. Only air and fine mist should appear, then stop fast.
Signs you waited too long this year
Missed the window? It happens. Watch for these signs so you act fast.
- Backflow drips or sprays from a seam.
- Controller runs a zone, but heads do not pop up. You hear water under the lawn.
- Soggy strip near the foundation after a cold snap.
- Visible crack on PVC near valve boxes.
If you see one, shut irrigation water at the isolation valve and book a repair. Do not feel bad. Many of us learn this once, then never again.
PSI, CFM, and zone tips without the jargon
You do not need to be an engineer. Keep these ranges in mind.
| Component | Suggested PSI | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Standard sprinkler zones | 50 to 60 | Pulse 1 to 2 minutes per pass |
| Drip zones | 20 to 30 | Lower pressure, more gentle flow |
| Backflow device | Do not blow air through closed internals | Open test cocks, isolate and drain first |
CFM is about how much air you can push. Higher CFM clears faster. If your compressor is small, just cycle more. Patience wins.
Budget planning for families
Money talk is part of parenting. Yard costs should not surprise you every fall.
| Item | Typical range | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blowout service, 6 to 8 zones | 70 to 140 dollars | Every fall | Ask for multi-home or neighbor group pricing |
| Repair, cracked backflow | 250 to 800 dollars | As needed | Often caused by skipping blowout |
| Repair, split lateral line | 180 to 450 dollars | As needed | Depends on depth and access |
| Water loss from hidden leak | Varies, 1 to 10 gallons per minute possible | Until fixed | 1 gallon per minute wastes 1,440 gallons per day |
One small habit saves money: book the blowout when you set school calendars. Put it next to parent-teacher night, and you will not forget.
Environmental angle that teaches kids
Parents care about more than repairs. We want to raise kids who care for shared resources. A clean blowout stops winter breaks that leak for weeks. That saves water. If your child asks why you turn off and clear the system, tell them the simple math. A tiny leak of 1 gallon per minute wastes 1,440 gallons a day. That would fill dozens of bath tubs before you notice the bill spike.
Turn it into a micro-lesson. Show them the controller. Explain zones like rooms. Water where needed, not where wasted. This is not a grand speech. It is a 60 second talk at the garage door.
Controller tips for busy households
Smart controllers help, but a basic unit can do the job.
- Before blowout, take a photo of your schedule. If settings reset, you can reenter in spring fast.
- Use the Off or Rain mode after blowout. Some units still keep time and programs while stopped.
- Label zones by plain names. Front lawn. Back lawn. Drip beds. Simple beats clever when you are tired at night.
How blowout fits into a broader fall yard routine
You do not need a long checklist. A short one works better for most families.
- Book blowout for early October.
- Trim back perennials the kids brush past when they run.
- Rake or mulch leaves in play zones to avoid slick spots.
- Check gate latches and fence boards before winter wind picks up.
Four steps. Done. Then make cocoa.
Why Colorado Springs is harsher on irrigation than you think
Our nights dip fast. Soil can freeze even if days feel nice. The freeze-thaw cycle pushes on fittings, especially near shallow lines and at the backflow. Wind exposure on the Front Range cools hardware faster. South-facing beds might trick you with warmth. North-facing strips stay cold and hold ice in the soil longer. This mix is what makes a fall blowout practical here, even in what feels like a mild year.
A short personal note
I once waited, thinking a predicted warm week would stick. Then the forecast changed at 9 pm. By morning, we had a hard freeze. I ran the system to check and saw heads cough but not rise. Not my best moment. I called for help and still got lucky. No major breaks, just a stuck valve. Since then, I book early. Maybe a bit cautious, but calm beats scramble when kids need rides and homework help.
If you already had a break, what now?
Act methodically.
- Shut irrigation water at the isolation valve. Leave domestic water alone.
- Open the backflow test cocks to drain pressure.
- Turn the controller to Off.
- Call a local repair service. Ask if they can both repair and finish the blowout.
- In spring, run a pressure check at each zone and inspect for soft ground.
Try not to chase symptoms by digging at random spots. A quick pressure and valve check often points to the right area fast.
Small upgrades that help next year
- Add a labeled blowout port with a quick-connect fitting if you do not have one.
- Install a simple pressure gauge near the backflow so you can read system pressure at a glance.
- Raise sunken heads to grade. Flush the filter screens in drip zones.
- Replace old nozzles that stick. Stuck heads hold water and crack more often.
Kid-friendly safety checks before winter
- Walk the sidewalk edge with your child. Look for spots that stay wet. Mark with a small flag.
- Have them test a gate latch. If it is loose, fix it while they watch. Simple skill, big payoff.
- Show them how to turn off the irrigation controller. Let them press Off. It gives them a sense of agency.
Quick myths I hear a lot
- It is fine if I just drain the backflow. Not really. Water sits in laterals and valves. That is where cracks form.
- Higher pressure clears faster. Often the opposite. You atomize water, force mist into places it condenses, and risk damage.
- One pass is enough. Water pockets settle. A second pass takes a few extra minutes and pulls more out.
- Smart controllers make blowouts unnecessary. Controllers do not remove water. They only schedule it.
What matters most if you forget everything else
Shut irrigation water, clear lines with moderate pressure, cycle zones twice, and leave the controller Off. Simple, repeatable, safe.
Questions and answers
When is the best week to schedule in Colorado Springs?
Aim for late September to mid October. Try to finish before nights regularly hit 28 F. If you get an early cold snap, pull the trigger sooner.
Do I need to blow out if I have drip only?
Yes. Drip lines hold water in low spots and at emitters. Use lower pressure and gentle pulses. Clear them like any other zone.
How long does a normal blowout take?
About 20 to 40 minutes for 6 to 8 zones when done by a pro. DIY can take longer on the first try.
Will a blowout damage my system?
Not if pressure stays in range and zones run one at a time. Problems come from high PSI or continuous air for too long. Controlled pulses are safe.
What if my yard has a lot of elevation change?
Start with the highest zones. Finish with the lowest. Gravity helps pull remaining water to the low points, which you clear last.
Should I cover my backflow?
A simple insulated cover helps with temperature swings. It does not replace a blowout. Use both if your backflow sits in the wind.
Can I group with neighbors to save?
Often yes. Ask for a neighborhood rate if several homes book the same afternoon. It saves the crew time, which can reflect in price.
What if I travel in fall?
Book early and leave gate access. Some services can do the blowout while you are out, then text a report with photos. Ask about that when you schedule.
Do I need to do anything in spring after a blowout?
Turn water back on, close the backflow test cocks, and run each zone. Adjust heads, check for soft ground, and set a sane watering schedule. Take 20 minutes and you are set.